Hanoi/Luang Prabang (Day 115): Vietnam Doesn’t Want us to Leave!

June 23, 2016

Today we were flying to Luang Prabang, Laos at 6:50pm, so we had a pretty full day in Hanoi before we had to go to the airport. We had a leisurely and large breakfast upstairs. I ordered Vietnamese fried rice and it was a lot larger than I expected, so that was basically our early lunch.

After breakfast we went back to our room and started to book flights and some hotels for our last 3 weeks on the road. We’ll be going to Vientiane, Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Phu Quoc before making our way back to Saigon (then home!). We’ve booked all our flights until KL, we’ll do the rest in the next couple of days.

Since we didn’t have to leave for the airport until later in the afternoon, we asked for a late check out and we didn’t head out into town until 1pm. I think if we asked for even later they probably would’ve given it to us. The staff at the hotel was really accommodating!

We finally checked out and headed out for lunch. We hadn’t eaten any food in Hanoi that we really wanted to have again, so it made deciding what to eat for lunch a bit challenging. Tim is always down for eating more banh mi so we decided to try to find a new place.

We walked through the old town and close to Hoan Kiem lake to see what we could find. We found a Banh Mi shop called, Banh Mi Pho Cho. It looked promising. We ordered two sandwiches and took a seat. I ordered a roasted pork sandwich and Tim had the classic deli meats and pate banh mi. Both our sandwiches were pretty mediocre. I can see now why Banh Mi 25 is supposedly the best banh mi in Hanoi, there isn’t that much competition for good banh mi in Hanoi’s old town.

Banh Mi Pho Co
Banh Mi Pho Co
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Tim’s classic pate and ham sandwich was 20,000 VND = $1.16 CAD and my roasted pork sandwich was 25,000 VND = $1.45 CAD
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My roasted pork banh mi. Nothing to write home about

We walked through old town and decided to go to Cong Caphe to escape the heat for a bit. We are usually indoors during mid-afternoon so it was especially draining being in the sun during mid-day. We wanted to go to Cong Caphe since we weren’t going to be having it again (unless Saigon has one, but we may not have time to go). We ordered a coconut coffee and a frozen lemonade (the exact order we had the first time we went). Both were delicious as usual and we got to spend some time watching over Hanoi’s hectic streets.

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Frozen lemonade and coconut coffee (45,000 VND each = $2.60 CAD)
My favourite drink
My favourite drink
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Cong Caphe, one of many in Hanoi

We walked around Hoan Kiem Lake, which was nice because it was mostly shaded by all the trees. After we made a loop around the lake, we made our way back to the hotel to cool down a bit before the car took us to the airport. The hotel manager and staff were nice and gave us cold towels (seeing how much we were sweating) and cold juice while we waited for our car. The manager also gave us a Vietnamese lacquered plate as a souvenir – that was really nice of him. Then about 5 minutes later he asked us if we would write a review on Trip Advisor for them. I was going to write one for them any way, but for a small business, I can see how good reviews on Trip Advisor are basically their life blood if they’re in the tourism industry. I told him that’s how I found this hotel, through Trip Advisor, so obviously I was going to pay it forward.

My favourite area of Hanoi
My favourite area of Hanoi
Hoan Kiem lake
Hoan Kiem Lake

Right at 4:30pm, our car came to pick us up and we said bye to all the staff at the hotel. It took about half an hour to get from Old Town to the airport. There’s a lot of traffic trying to get out of the city, but once you get on the highway it’s smooth sailing.

Noi Bai International Airport
Noi Bai International Airport
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International terminal gates
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Yup, we had Popeye’s again. This was $15 USD (everything was more expensive in this terminal).

We arrived at the international terminal and it was a lot nicer than Hanoi’s domestic terminal – mainly because it’s newer. The airport was pretty dead. There were a few flights leaving for Seoul, Taipei, and Hong Kong. The Lao Airline counter was not busy at all. It seems like the majority of the passengers on this flight to Luang Prabang are westerners and only about 10% Laotian.

Once we got through security and Vietnamese exiting customs, we walked around the departures terminal and ended up getting Popeye’s for late lunch/early dinner. The international terminal prices are all in USD and are a lot more expensive than the domestic terminal.

As we neared our boarding time, we weren’t boarding and I knew our flight was going to be delayed. Sure enough, we heard an announcement saying that our flight was delayed from 6:50pm to 7:10pm. Then 7:10pm quickly came and went and we still hadn’t boarded. Another announcement came on saying that the flight has been delayed to 8:40pm due to technical issues. They gave us a small sandwich and some water, which was probably what we should’ve eaten on board as our dinner. We finally boarded close to 9pm.

The plane was pretty small. It’s the type of plane you would fly from Vancouver to Seattle (Tim: Actually, it was an ATR 72 and I think it’s bigger than any plane I’ve been on from Vancouver to Seattle). The flight time to Luang Prabang is only an hour and a half (thankfully). When we arrived at the airport, we were the only flight that was there. It seemed like the only people working at the airport were the customs officers.

On our Lao Airline flight
On our Lao Airline flight
Our small plane
Our small plane
We made it to Luang Prabang!
We made it to Luang Prabang!

Laos requires a visa upon arrival so we tried to walk faster than the majority of the plane since we knew that 90% of the plane would need a visa. Depending on what country you’re from, you have to pay any where between $30 USD – $42 USD for the visa. Lucky for us, Canada is the only country that is $42! Even Afghanistan is $40 USD. Most other western countries are $30 USD. There was a big chart at the visa line with a list of all countries and their prices. Since we landed after normal work hours, it was an extra $1 USD to process. We had passport pictures printed at Costco before we left for the Laotian and Cambodian visas, but had we known that it would only cost an extra $1 USD for them to just photocopy a picture for you, we may have considered that.

Customs and visa line after we crossed it
Customs and visa line after we crossed it

After the visa line we took our passports to the customs line. They were having technical difficulties with their computers so we had to wait longer in that line. Finally, we got through, grabbed our bags and the hotel car was waiting for us outside. Lucky our hotel had free airport transfer because there were no cabs or tuk tuks around at all.

We’re staying at “Le Bel Air Boutique Resort“, which is about 5km away from the airport. We couldn’t see much in the dark but Luang Prabang seemed very quaint and quiet as there weren’t many scooters or cars on the street at night. The hotel looked very Thai or I guess very Laotian. The reception and restaurant area are all open air and each room is in its own villa area. We were brought to our room and were pretty surprised at how nice and large the room was. We’re lucky it’s down season because they had a “stay 3 nights, pay for 2” promotion, so we’re paying $60 CAD/night. Hotels in Laos aren’t as cheap as Vietnam.

Our room for the next 3 nights
Our room for the next 3 nights
Washroom with a walk in rain fall shower
Washroom with a walk in rain fall shower
Nice rainfall shower
Nice rainfall shower

After a really long day, we washed up and went to bed. Both really looking forward to exploring the city more tomorrow!

Steps today: 11,000

Da Nang (Day 104): Scorching Sun and Dragon Bridge

June 12, 2016

This morning we packed up, ate a small breakfast, and took a taxi to the airport. We won’t be back in Saigon again until mid-July to catch our flight back home. We got the same Vinasun taxi driver we had last time (I guess he’s stationed near our hotel area). The taxi ride to the airport only was 110,000 VND = $6.30 CAD.

We checked in at Vietnam Airlines and headed towards the gates. The flight was fairly empty so we got seats pretty far forward on the plane. We had about an hour and half to kill before we boarded. The domestic terminal at Tan Son Nhat International Airport had a few souvenir shops and two areas with Asian and Western food options. We shared a meal at Popeye’s. Their chicken tenders are pretty awesome.

Security line at Ton Son Nhat
Security line at Ton Son Nhat
I think Vietnamese airport have a hard time finding filling up their space. These ads for advertisings are all over the airport (in DaNang too)
I think Vietnamese airport have a hard time finding advertisers to fill up their space. These ads for advertisings are all over the airport (in DaNang too)
Our lunch, chicken tenders (with a free piece of chicken) combo - 102,000 VND = $6 CAD.
Our lunch, chicken tenders (with a free piece of chicken) combo – 102,000 VND = $6 CAD.
En route to Da Nang!
En route to Da Nang!
Our hottest destination yet
Our hottest destination yet

The flight to Da Nang was only an hour. The plane was comfortable and they gave us a bottle of water and a wet wipe (just like the buses). There was no in flight service since it was such a short flight. When we landed in Da Nang, it was sunny and 39°C! So hot. Da Nang’s airport is Vietnam’s third international airport, built in 2007, so it’s more modern compared to Saigon and Hanoi. Before exiting the airport, we had to show our baggage receipt and the Vietnam Airline rep had to compare it to our bags before we were able to leave. We’ve never had to do this in any airport, but it is a good system to have to make sure people don’t just steal your luggage.

DaNang arrivals terminal
DaNang arrivals terminal

We hailed a Vinasun cab and headed to our hotel for the next two days, Hadana Boutique Hotel. The hotel was pretty highly rated on Trip Advisor and is fairly new. We’re paying $55 CAD/night, which is a bit pricier for Vietnam. They welcomed us with cold towels and a drink as we checked in. They showed us to our room, which had two twin beds (was probably the cheapest option)(Tim: It was), and was very nice and modern. The room was also the biggest room we’ve had in Vietnam so far, so it felt like a definite treat! For an extra $25/night, you can get some pretty “luxurious” rooms in Vietnam. The hotel is situated on the other side of the Han River (not in the downtown core) but in between the Han River and the beach.

Our room at Hadana. Comfortable and clean.
Our room at Hadana. Comfortable and clean.
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Washroom with rain fall shower and nice toiletries
Our partial view of the mountains and ocean
Our partial view of the mountains and ocean

When we arrived, we noticed there were hardly any people out and about. Probably due to the extreme heat. The way we came from the airport, there were not nearly as many scooters as there were in Saigon. We rested up in the hotel room for a bit and then decided to head out much later in the afternoon.

We decided to walk towards the “downtown” area, across the Han River for coffee and dinner. Before crossing the bridge, there was a huge Vincom mall, which has an array of stores, a movie theatre, and restaurants from all parts of Asia (Jollibees from the Philippines and Crystal Jade from HK), and an indoor ice rink. It’s a pretty fancy mall for Vietnam. We went inside to check it out and we figured out that’s where everyone in Da Nang was.

Vincom Mall in Da Nang
Vincom Mall in Da Nang
Indoor ice rink
Indoor ice rink
I knew it didn't look like a pig and I Googled what "thit cho" was after :(
I knew it didn’t look like a pig and I Googled what “thit cho” was after 🙁
We saw a bunch of puppy vendors just before we walked on to the bridge. Would like to think that they were being sold as pets...
We saw a bunch of puppy vendors just before we walked on to the bridge. Would like to think that they were being sold as pets…
You can see the Dragon Bridge in the distance
You can see the Dragon Bridge in the distance
Walking over the Han River
Walking over the Han River

A friend of ours who had recently been to Vietnam told us about this coconut smoothie coffee from “Cong Caphe“, which was “life changing” (his words). When someone says a drink or dish is life changing to them, we have to try it. Cong Caphe is located right on the Han River and is a trendy cafe with a communism look to it. We grabbed a seat on the second floor looking out the window, it was nice and relaxing. We ordered one of the coconut coffees and a frozen lemonade (both were 45,000 VND each = $2.60 CAD). The drinks were indeed really good. The coconut coffee was my favourite. I think I’ll attempt to make something similar when we get back in the summer. The frozen lemonade was really refreshing and had a lot of lemon zest (the lemons here are more like limes).  The cafe had wifi so it was a good place for us to take some time to wait to go out again when the sun was setting. The cafe was full of a mixture of locals and a lot of Korean tourists.

Cong Caphe, Da Nang
Cong Caphe, Da Nang
Inside Cong Caphe
Inside Cong Caphe
Our view for a couple of hours at Cong Caphe with our coconut coffee and the frozen lemonade
Our view for a couple of hours at Cong Caphe with our coconut coffee and the frozen lemonade (with the hat I bought from Ben Thanh)

After spending a good amount of time at Cong Caphe, the sun was starting to set so we left and walked along the Han River. The streets around the Han River were all lit up with neon store signs and lanterns hung from the surrounding trees. All the bridges were also very colourful and lit up the city. At 9pm on Saturday and Sundays, the Dragon Bridge, has a “show” and spouts fire and water out of its mouth, so we were going to try to catch that.

Da Nang riverside at dusk. So pretty!
Da Nang riverside at dusk. So pretty!
The bridge in the distance is the bridge we crossed over
The bridge in the distance is the bridge we crossed over
Tim's nicer pictures of the Han River
Tim’s nicer pictures of the Han River
A Catholic church we passed by on the way to dinner. The Mass was super packed and even had seats set up outside in the parking lot.
A Catholic church we passed by on the way to dinner. The Mass was super packed and even had seats set up outside in the parking lot.

I did a bit of research online and found a place to try for dinner. It specialized in “banh xeo” (Vietnamese savoury pancake) and satay skewers. It took about 30 minutes to walk there from where we were on the river and it was actually quite hidden away. We saw a bunch of people getting dropped off by taxis at the alley so we knew we were in the right place (that and Google maps helped a lot). The restaurant was at the end of a narrow alley and was quite a large and very chaotic place. We walked in trying to find a seat and were given a seat in a make shift table area. They have 3 different items on their menu and they just give you everything without you ordering. This seemed like common practice and if you wanted more of something you had to tell them. Although, for foreigners, it was difficult to communicate, so we just went with the flow.

Ba Duong, and the end of a narrow alley in Da Nang
Ba Duong, and the end of a narrow alley in Da Nang

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This place was packed. This is just the front of the restaurant. We were seated in the back section.

We were given a dish of lettuce and herbs, cucumbers, 3 bowls of satay sauce, pickled green papaya, and rice paper. They put down a plate of 10 pork skewers, 3 large cut up banh xeos, and a plate of marinated pork (Tim: or beef?) slices. We observed locals around us eating and saw they would just make wraps using the rice paper (add all the sides) and dip it into the peanuty satay sauce. The flavours were really awesome. The only downside to eating here was that it was a super chaotic environment (although the staff has their process down pat) and it was super super hot inside (we were at the back of the restaurant). They had fans on the ceilings but it didn’t really help us that much. Both of us were sweating really badly and the waitresses didn’t understand my request for drinks. We weren’t able to finish all the food served to us, mainly the banh xeos. Tim wasn’t a big fan of them, but I liked them just didn’t have enough stomach to finish it. All the food came out to 185,000 VND = $10.60 CAD, which was pretty good value. The boss lady (the one at the restaurant who usually walks around with the wad of cash) wrote us up a detailed bill.

As soon as we sat down these were placed on our table
As soon as we sat down these were placed on our table
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Our whole spread (less a few skewers and pancake eaten)

We headed back towards the Han River and planned to walk back to our side of the river and walk over the Dragon Bridge so we could watch the show at 9pm. As we walked over the bridge a lot of people were already camping out for their spots for the show. We walked over the bridge and further down the River to get a more panoramic view. It was pretty crowded with families and other tourists enjoying the night. The show was fairly anti-climatic, basically the dragon blows out fire a few times and then shoots out water (pretty far range) after. After about 10 minutes, we got the gist of the show and walked back to the hotel.

So many more scooters at night!
So many more scooters at night!
Dragon Bridge at the tail end, on our way to cross it
Dragon Bridge at the tail end, on our way to cross it. The dragon changes colour – green, blue, orange
Walking over the Dragon Bridge
Walking over the Dragon Bridge
Dragon's head, where the fire and water came out at 9pm
Dragon’s head, where the fire and water came out at 9pm
Fire coming out of the dragon's mouth
Fire coming out of the dragon’s mouth
Water spouting out of the dragon's mouth
Water spouting out of the dragon’s mouth…and that’s it!
Da Nang has their own "Merlion"
Da Nang has their own “Merlion”
So many lights around the river side
So many lights around the river side

The path along the Han River is quite nice. There are tons of sugar cane vendors set up and have tables and chairs all over for people to just sit and relax. There was also a lot of activities for children at night – rides, painting stations, and other games. We finally got back to the hotel and looked pretty warn (super sweaty and tired). We couldn’t wait to take showers and go to sleep.

Chairs are all set up along the river where people are enjoying their sugar cane juice
Chairs are all set up along the river where people are enjoying their sugar cane juice

Tomorrow we’re going to take it easy and check out My Khe Beach and hang out by the pool downstairs.

Steps today: 18,000