Saigon (Day 103): Our Own Food Tour

June 11, 2016

We both got a better night sleep at the Platinum Hotel than we did in Can Tho. It helped that we had more than just a thin blanket when the A/C was on all night. We didn’t have much planned today in terms of sightseeing. Saigon doesn’t have that many “must see” attractions around the city. The ones that we thought were important to see, we already saw on our first two days here. Since we didn’t have a set plan, we planned our day around what restaurants and food we wanted to try. We went downstairs for a quick breakfast and some juice before starting our walk to our first food stop, Tay Ho.

Our breakfast of choice at the hotel - rice noodles with green onions and fried scallions with fish sauce
Our breakfast of choice at the hotel – rice noodles with green onions and fried scallions with fish sauce on the side.

The walk to Tay Ho was about 20 minutes or so. We passed through Dong Khoi and Notre Dame again (the nicer areas in Saigon).

The Dong Khoi area is a nice area where all the nice hotels and branded stores are. Definitely a different feel than most other areas in Saigon.
The Dong Khoi area is a nice area where all the nice hotels and branded stores are. Definitely a different feel than most other areas in Saigon. There are also way more American looking tourists there.
We walked by Notre Dame again
We walked by Notre Dame again
Saigon Square - a local clothing market where the vendors are way less aggressive than at Ben Thanh
Saigon Square – a local clothing market where the vendors are way less aggressive than at Ben Thanh
Parks in Saigon are a necessary reprieve from the chaos
Parks in Saigon are a necessary reprieve from the chaos (no scooters are allowed in)
Tay Ho store front
After a hot and long-ish walk we made it to Tay Ho!

Tay Ho has been around since the 1960’s and specializes in “banh cuon”, which is a rice roll filled with ground pork, shallots, and minced wood-eared mushrooms. Banh Cuon is originally from Northern Vietnam, but we heard good things about Tay Ho so we wanted to give it a shot. We just ordered one “dac biet” (special) to share (they give you a menu with prices), and it was plenty for the two of us. It was really tasty and was quite filling. We dipped the banh cuon in the fish sauce that was on the table (they had a jug on the table).

When we sat down they put cold wet wipes on our table to use. So far we haven’t been charged while in Saigon to use them so we opened them and wiped our hands and neck. When it was time to pay, they charged us for them (3,000 VND each). So now we will never use them again! I’ll bring the wet wipes I bought from Australia with me from now on.

Banh Cuon (48,000 VND = $2.75 CAD)
Banh Cuon (48,000 VND = $2.75 CAD)
You get 4 really stuffed rice rolls in each order
You get 4 really stuffed rice rolls in each order
Open kitchen concept
Open kitchen concept

Our next stop was another pho restaurant, called Pho Phuong 25. We read on a couple of blogs about the restaurant and it was also recommended by a friend. It’s just down the street from “The Lunch Lady”, so we were already familiar with the area and how to get there. We walked along the Saigon River, and were actually the only ones (as far as our eyes could see) walking along the water. I guess it’s way too hot to be walking around at 11am.

Saigon River
Saigon River

Once we got to Pho Phuong 25, we decided to just share a bowl of pho. We knew we wouldn’t be able to finish a bowl ourselves since we just had banh cuon about 30 minutes ago. Tim ordered the “dac biet”, which is usually our go to thing to order since it’s their house special, and if we’re going to order one thing the house special is a good choice. We also shared a Vietnamese soda, which turned out to be sarsaparilla.  The pho came shortly after and the bowl was quite hefty and full of a variety of brisket, beef balls, tendon, and braised animal part that we weren’t sure of (but it was very tender). It was good that we shared because I could barely eat half of it. We both thought the pho was better than the one we had on our second night at Pho Thanh Canh.

Pho making
Pho making
Pho dac biet
Pho dac biet, 110,000 VND = $6.30 for the pho and a soda. I think the pho was supposed to be 50,000 VND, so I guess Tim’s soda was 60,000 VND…
Pho/meat sweats.
Pho/meat sweats.

We decided to head back to the hotel for our afternoon reprieve from the scorching sun. On our way back we shared an iced milk coffee (14,000 VND = $0.80 CAD) and then passed by our orange juice lady from our first day in Saigon. She recognized us and suggested the passionfruit juice. We agreed and then also ordered a freshly squeezed orange juice (both 10,000 VND = $0.57 CAD). As we were leaving she said she’ll see us again soon. So I guess we’ll be coming back in July! Her juices are really good and she makes them (cuts the fruit infront of you) on the spot as opposed to a lot of street vendors we passed by already who have the passionfruit in the cup and ready to have ice and water mixed in.

Tim ordering iced coffee. He was also carrying the backpack for a bit (if you couldn't already tell)
Tim ordering iced coffee. He was also carrying the backpack for a bit (if you couldn’t already tell)
Our fruit juice lady. She used 3 full passion fruits for my drink
Our fruit juice lady. She used 3 full passion fruits for my drink and loaded it with ice. Ice melt super fast here!

Originally we thought we would go to this fried chicken and rice place for lunch but we were full and the sun was getting pretty unbearable so we decided to save that for dinner tonight.

On the way back to the hotel, we passed by Ben Thanh Market again. Since we were going to be in SE Asia for another month and a bit, I bought a hat. I regretted not bringing a hat from home for this portion of the trip but I guess this makes for my Vietnamese souvenir. I ended up buying a bamboo fedora from a stall at the market. I tried on a bunch of sizes and finally found one that fit me properly. The girl working asked me if I was Vietnamese. I said no and she said I looked Vietnamese. So far on this trip, two Vietnamese people have told me they thought I was Vietnamese. One today and one from the Vietnamese restaurant in Adelaide. Any how we bargained and I got my hat for 40% of what she was asking for originally. I’m a really bad bargainer so luckily Tim was there to make me “walk away” before she called us back with a much lower price.

We stayed inside for the remainder of the afternoon (as locals do), worked on the blog and I researched more about the Hanoi portion of our trip. We booked our hotel for Hanoi and narrowed down which boat tour we were going to go with for Halong Bay. We’re deciding to splurge for the Halong Bay boat tour and take a 3 day 2 night cruise with a highly rated (on Trip Advisor) company. We heard horror stories about the cheaper ones, so I’d rather pay more to be comfortable, especially on a boat. Vietnam has been really cheap so far so it’ll be a nice treat.

After a productive and restful afternoon, we headed out for dinner. The chicken place we wanted to go to was about a 25 minute walk from our hotel. The restaurant is called, “Quon Com Ga Xoi Mo Su Su”, which has a really interesting way they fry their chicken. The owner created a one of a kind deep fryer than is basically like a waterfall of oil that crisps the chicken. All the chicken has already been cooked once but before it’s served, it goes through the oil waterfall and then served with rice and a really good brown sauce (which we have no idea what it was). They have a choice between a leg and thigh or a wing and breast. We memorized what the dark and white meat options were called but when we got there they only had the wing and breast left. White meat is always the leftover meat in Asia.

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We’ve arrived
The kitchen
The kitchen
Waterfall of hot oil
Waterfall of hot oil
Typical outdoor seating
Typical outdoor seating
The menu. We ordered two of the first thing on the menu.
The menu. We ordered two of the first thing on the menu (chicken and rice)

We both ordered our own dish this time and lucky we did because everything was super delicious. It reminded me of crispy skin chicken at Chinese restaurants except it was juicier and piping hot as it came straight out of the oil waterfall. They had wet wipes on the table but we didn’t touch them, but at least the menu on the table said they were 1,000 VND each. After we ordered the waiter came by again and said “rings”. We were confused and weren’t sure what he was saying, he said it again and we were just like, sorry, we don’t understand. Then he left. Then a second later, I realized what he was trying to say. He was saying, “drinks”! Oh well.

Chicken and rice (42,000 VND = $2.40 CAD)
Chicken and rice (42,000 VND = $2.40 CAD)

I would go back there again for their chicken, maybe for lunch when they have dark meat left. We headed back towards the hotel and wanted to find coconut ice cream for dessert. We basically looked at a food tour itinerary and googled where to find certain dishes. On the way to the chicken place, we passed by an ice cream shop that looked crowded and it was exactly the dessert we were planning on getting (at another location farther away), so this worked out well.

The dessert place was called, Ca-Rem. It looked like a more hip restaurant and probably the nicest restaurant/cafe we’ve eaten in our entire time in Vietnam so far. We shared one of the coconut ice creams and it was delicious! If we go again, I would want my own. The coconut cream ice cream comes in a half coconut shell that has all its flesh scraped to eat, fried coconut flakes, corn, palm fruit, sticky rice, and peanuts. The inspiration behind Ca-Rem is Thai coconut ice cream. When we were in Thailand, we had this quite a bit from street vendor but it wasn’t as fancy. This was definitely a more refined version of the ones we had in Thailand (for only $1 CAD or less). The waitress gave us a glass of what we thought was water and it turned out to be coconut water from the hollowed out shell. At first I thought it was just regular water so I drank it and realized it was coconut water. There are only two items on the menu: ice cream and coconut water. After I drank it, I was like oh no, I didn’t want to pay for it (15,000 VND = $0.85 CAD, I know it’s not much), but it was too late. But then after we paid, it turns out that was included in the price (phew!).

Ca-Rem dessert cafe
Ca-Rem dessert cafe
Coconut ice cream - 35,000 VND = $2 CAD
Coconut ice cream – 35,000 VND = $2 CAD

We passed by a Missha (Korean cosmetic store that I bought a lot of stuff from in Seoul), so I went inside to see what the prices were like. I expected it to be on par with the prices in Korea since they were pretty cheap and most things in Vietnam are cheap. But after seeing the price of the face cream I bought, I was very wrong. I paid $12 CAD for a face cream in Seoul and it was $50 CAD here! Face masks were $2.40 CAD each, and less than a dollar in Seoul (when they were on sale).  Missha and Korean products are definitely for the more wealthy Vietnamese people. We noticed there are a lot of Korean restaurants and cafes here. There’s a Tous les Jours, which is from Korea. I remember going into one and thinking it was overpriced and left, so when we went into one here, I had deja-vu since I did the exact same thing.

We’re back at the hotel for our last night in Saigon before coming back here in July (before heading home!). The hotel left some Vietnamese snacks for us with a note saying that they hope we enjoyed our stay in Vietnam. That’s nice of them! We washed up (basically have two showers a day here) and I ate the rambutans that they gave us for our welcoming fruit.

We’re heading to central Vietnam tomorrow and looking forward to seeing a different part of the country. Our flight is at 1pm tomorrow, so we’ll probably just have an easy morning and then head to the airport!

Steps today: 20,000

Can Tho/Saigon (Day 102): Back to the Big City!

June 10, 2016

It was our last morning in Can Tho before heading back to Saigon (I’ll call it Saigon now instead of HCMC, since we’re in the south). The lady downstairs reserved seats for us on the 1pm Phuong Trang bus, so we had a bit of time to get something to eat for breakfast/lunch. We wanted to eat somewhere close by and both agreed that we wanted more of the Bun Bo Hue. The one bowl that we shared yesterday wasn’t enough.

Bun Bo Hue for breakfast
Bun Bo Hue for breakfast
Delicious soup and noodles (30,000 VND = $1.70 CAD)
Delicious soup and noodles (30,000 VND = $1.70 CAD)

We found a seat inside the restaurant this time and ordered two bowls. As we were eating, the ladies began packing up the soup for the day. It looks like they open for breakfast and then close during the day and probably open again at night. We’ve learned that almost all Vietnamese dishes that we’ve had can be eaten at all times of the day. There’s no distinct “breakfast food” or “dinner food” food. Tim and I both agreed that this Bun bo Hue has been our favourite noodle soup so far. It’s too bad it’s our last day in Can Tho. The broth is amazing, all the meat is cut to order, and the noodles are perfectly cooked. Tim drank his broth and mine (I usually stop drinking my soup when I don’t have any noodles left).

After a delicious brunch, we headed down the street to take a peak at “Saigon Bakery”. The hotel had a list of restaurants/shops close by that they like and the bakery was on the list. It looked good but it was just like a Chinese bakery with sweet buns. We were full from the noodles and didn’t really feel like buying anything for the bus ride. We went next door to a coffee shop and both got ice coffees instead. The man and woman at the coffee shop didn’t speak any English so we had to try to act out what we wanted (he understand that we wanted coffee but we had to describe ice coffee and to go). The girl behind the counter thought this was hilarious and was just standing behind him laughing. Tim asked for milk (“sua”) but the guy didn’t understand. Luckily Tim pulled out Google Translate and typed out milk to show the guy. Obviously Tim originally pronounced it incorrectly, so the guy didn’t understand. Then Tim showed him his phone and the guy said it properly and the girl started laughing harder. In the end we got what we wanted and everyone had a good laugh.

Ice Coffee with Milk (Can Phe Sua) - 15,000 VND = $0.85 CAD
Ice Coffee with Milk (Can Phe Sua) – 15,000 VND = $0.85 CAD
Waiting in the lobby for the shuttle bus
Waiting in the lobby for the shuttle bus

We headed back to the hotel and packed up and went downstairs to wait for our shuttle bus to the bus station. The shuttle bus finally came around 12:15pm (supposed to be at noon). There were already some passengers in the van when sat down. The bus driver went on to pick up 10+ people. The bus was super cramped (as per usual). We finally made it to the bus station at 12:55pm. We ran into the station to the Futa Bus counter to get our tickets. There was no line up. It was basically how aggressive can you be to get to the counter first. Since we ran directly into the building before a lot of others, I helped Tim block out people from the side so he could get in there first. Then I took his bags and stood back to get out of the crowd. Only one of us needed to be subjected to that. I sat back and took pictures.

Can you spot Tim's blue Canucks hat?
Can you spot Tim’s blue Canucks hat?

Our seats for this bus ride were 10 and 11, so we weren’t at the front of the bus for the ride back. This bus driver wasn’t as crazy with the horn as the other one we had, so the ride was a bit more enjoyable. It took closer to 4 hours to get back to Saigon because of traffic. There was really slow WiFi on the bus, so I spent the four hours sleeping a bit and then reading old blog posts. Taiwan seems like so long ago! I was reminiscing about the high speed trains in Taiwan and Japan while sitting on the bus. If Vietnam ends up building their high speed rail (eventually), the ride from Can Tho to Saigon would probably be less than an hour (171 km distance) instead of 4.

Tim mentioned that he feels like Vietnam, from what he’s seen so far, is what Taiwan was probably like in 20-30 years ago. Even now, while walking around Can Tho and Saigon, it does feel a bit like (a dirtier/chaotic) Taiwan. The street food culture, the look of many street restaurants, and all the scooters. Taiwan had a lot more scooters pre-MRT days and a lot more stray dogs just like Vietnam. Tim took some videos and will show his parents to see what they think.

We finally arrived at the chaotic Saigon Bus Station and didn’t want to take another one of the Phuong Trang shuttles so we just got into a Vinasun taxi (one of the honest/reputable cabs) and took it to the Platinum Hotel. The bus station is farther away from District 1 than the airport, so our cab fare was 150,000 VND = $8.50 CAD. We’ve taken two VinaSun taxis and both have been good/not sketchy at all. Their meters are actually legit!

We were welcomed back to Platinum Hotel and asked how Can Tho was. We’ll be staying here again for the next two nights (in the same room as before) before flying to Danang. We got the rooms for even cheaper this time at $28 CAD/night. We settled in and looked up a place to eat for dinner. One of our favourite Vietnamese dishes to eat at home are the dry vermicelli bowls with grilled meat and spring rolls (bun thit nuong) so that’s what we were going to have for dinner. We found a place that was about a 20 minute walk from our hotel so we set out to find it.

The restaurant’s name is Chi Thong and it was on Co Giang Street, which turned out to be a really cool street with a ton of street food. It was basically just locals walking around and we saw sugar cane juice for only 5,000 VND (half of what the price is usually in more touristy areas). We’ll probably keep this street in mind for future meals. We finally made it to the restaurant and sat down and ordered two “buns” and two spring rolls. The bowl was filled with fresh greens and herbs on the bottom and everything was super refreshing. The spring rolls were really delicious. I think we’ll go back again when we come back to Saigon at the end of our trip. Our dinner was 119,000 VND = $6.80 CAD for our two bowls, two spring rolls, and a soda.

Chi Thong on Co Giang St.
Chi Thong on Co Giang St.
We didn't get a break down of the price per item, but we think each bowl was 40,000 VND = $2.28 CAD and each spring roll was 15,000 VND = $0.85 CAD, and Tim's drink was 9,000 VND = $0.50 CAD
We didn’t get a break down of the price per item, but we think each bowl was 40,000 VND = $2.28 CAD, each spring roll was 15,000 VND = $0.85 CAD, and Tim’s drink was 9,000 VND = $0.50 CAD
Each bun came with 3 skewers of grilled pork and a huge bed of lettuce and herbs on the bottom. You pour fish sauce over the top and mix it together.
Each bun came with 3 skewers of grilled pork and a huge bed of lettuce and herbs on the bottom. You pour fish sauce over the top and mix it together. My favourite meal in Saigon.
Walking back to the hotel. So many scooters!
Walking back to the hotel. So many scooters!

We headed back to the hotel for the night, chilled out and watched some Vietnamese TV. Actually, there were a ton of English channels with Vietnamese sub titles. We watched “England & Ireland’s Next Top Model” and “Fast & Furious 7”. I’m starting to pick up on Vietnamese words… Mainly food and drink related. It’s a lot easier for English speakers to learn Vietnamese words since they use the same alphabet vs. many of the other Asian languages. It’s just the pronunciation is probably off but at least you can try to say the words.

It’s almost been a week since we’ve been in Vietnam and it’s been growing on me. The best thing here is definitely their variety of good food. I’ve enjoyed every meal we’ve had so far. It’s hard for me not to keep comparing it to Thailand since it’s the only other SE Asian country we’ve been to together. I’m actually enjoying the food in Vietnam more than Thailand (it’s also a bit cheaper for the most part), but I do think Thai people overall are much friendlier.

Steps today: 8,000