Miyajima/Hiroshima/Osaka (Day 41): Oh Deer!

April 10, 2016

We woke up later than we planned on but the bed was really comfortable. Tim researched that high tide in Miyajima was around 11:00am so we were still good on time. We checked out of the hotel and left our bags there around 9:30am. We decided to just walk to Hiroshima Station since we just missed one of the street cars and didn’t see any other one in the near distance. The walk was actually really nice and refreshing.

Tangram cranes line the Hiroshima Station walls
Heart-shaped “Tangram” peace cranes line the Hiroshima Station walls

We made it to Hiroshima Station with a bit of time to spare as the next train leaving for Miyajima was at 10:13am. I bought a tuna onigiri (110 JPY = $1.30 CAD) and grape juice (100 JPY = $1.20 CAD) from 7-Eleven for breakfast on the train. The train ride to Miyajima was only about 20 minutes (Tim: we caught an express train that only made a few stops), so it was a quick ride there. Once we arrived, we had to take a short ferry across to Itsukushima, where the famous O-torii Gate is in the water.

On the ferry to Itsukushima. You can see the O-torii Gate ("floating" red gate) in the background
On the ferry to Itsukushima. You can see the O-torii Gate (“floating” red gate) in the background

When we got off the ferry and walked a short distance through town towards the shrine and O-torii Gate, we were greeted by some friendly Japanese deer.

Deer just hanging out
Deer just hanging out
Deers were all over the island and were very friendly and a bit bratty
Deer were all over the island and were very friendly and (some) a bit bratty
This bratty deer took a train schedule pamphlet out of Tim's back pocket
This bratty deer took a train schedule pamphlet out of Tim’s back pocket
O-torii Gate at high tide
O-torii Gate at high tide
When it's high tide, the gate looks like it's floating. At low tide people can walk up to the gate.
When it’s high tide, the gate looks like it’s floating. At low tide people can walk up to the gate.
Cherry blossoms around the gate
Cherry blossoms around the gate
Senjokaku Temple
Senjokaku Temple
Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine area
There was a wedding going on at the temple
There was a wedding going on at the temple
View of the town from the temple. There were a lot of locals picnicking around the temple grounds
View of the town from the temple. There were a lot of locals picnicking around the temple grounds
Beautiful Japanese garden
Beautiful Japanese garden with huge koi. Probably my Dad’s dream pond. (Tim: looks like a summer project)

After we finished walking through the shrine and temple area. We walked around the streets of vendors, which mostly sold a Miyajima specialty called, “Momiji Manju”, which are pancake like cakes shaped in a maple leaf. Another popular local dish are oysters prepared all ways: fried, grilled, or raw.

Momiji Manju: Cakes shaped in maple leaves and filled with red bean paste (traditionally). We got a green tea and custard. 90 JPY = $1.08 CAD
Momiji Manju: Cakes shaped in maple leaves and filled with red bean paste (traditionally). We got a green tea and custard. 90 JPY = $1.08 CAD
Inside my green tea manju
Inside my green tea manju. They were still warm when we bought them.
They had a Sanrio Store! Hello Kitty in Miyajima
They had a Sanrio Store! Hello Kitty in Miyajima

We had to keep a close eye on the time since we had to return to Hiroshima, grab our bags from the hotel, and be back at the train station by 4:17pm to head to Osaka. Surprisingly, we didn’t feel as rushed as I thought we would, we were ahead of schedule by about an hour so I felt a lot more relaxed than I did yesterday thinking about today (Tim: just thinking about the possibility of not being on time can stress Kait out).

We made our way back to Hiroshima Station to have lunch. Since we failed at eating tsukemen last night, Tim found that there was a Bakudanya at the train station! Considering we were only in Hiroshima for 24 hours, we were able to eat two dishes that they’re “most known for”: okonomiyaki and tsukemen.

Bakudanya Hiroshima
Bakudanya Hiroshima
Chicken karaage 4 pieces for 411 JPY = $4.95 CAD
Chicken karaage 4 pieces for 411 JPY = $4.95 CAD
My hot tsukemen 823 JPY = $9.90 CAD
My hot tsukemen 823 JPY = $9.90 CAD
Tim's cold tsukemen, he added an egg so it was 890 JPY = $10.50 CAD
Tim’s cold tsukemen, he added an egg so it was 874 JPY = $10.50 CAD

The final consensus was that Tim’s cold tsukemen was better. I can imagine eating it on a hot summer’s day, it would be really refreshing. I like how they give you paper bibs since there is a lot of splashing when you dip your noodles into the soup. (Tim: You can also choose the level of spiciness, with the (sane) range going from 1-20. I chose 3 and felt like it was a reasonable level of spice. You can go extreme and get levels up to the 100s though… I shudder to think.)

I thought this map of Hiroshima on the wall was cool. We went to all the sites except for Mazda Stadium (where the Hiroshima Carps play)
I thought this map of Hiroshima on the wall was cool. We went to all the pictures on this wall except for Mazda Stadium (where the Hiroshima Carps play)

After lunch, we walked back to the hotel. We were really full from lunch so it was good to walk it off. The sun started coming out so it was actually really warm walking back. We had to switch to the shadier side of the street. We got back to the hotel and picked up our bags and caught the street car back to Hiroshima Station. I was happy that we were able to walk to and from the station and only took the street car back when we had our heavy backpacks (saved ourselves 640 JPY = $7.70 CAD) (Tim: and more importantly, got to take in the sights and sounds of the streets as a pedestrian).

Waiting for the street car to Hiroshima Station
Waiting for the street car to Hiroshima Station
This was random. There was a Hawaiian fair thing going on at the station. They had lots of Japanese hula dancers and they were selling Hawaiian apparel.
This was random. There was a Hawaiian fair thing going on in an underground mall. They had lots of Japanese hula dancers and they were selling Hawaiian apparel.
Japanese people love Hawaii and so do I. Ko Olina is one of my favourite places in Hawaii.
Japanese people love Hawaii and so do I. Ko Olina is one of my favourite places in Hawaii.

We got back to Hiroshima with a half hour to spare before boarding our train to Osaka. It was important we didn’t miss this train because we were meeting Tim’s Great-Aunt (7th Aunt on my Dad’s Mom’s side) on the platform at the station. She knew our train number and which car we were in and said she would be waiting on the platform for us (she also does not have a cell phone). Once we arrived at Shin-Osaka station (after a 1.5hr ride from Hiroshima on the high-speed rail), she was there waiting for us!

Tim and his 7-Yi Ma (Great Aunt) at Shin-Osaka Station walking towards the subway
Tim and his 7-Yi Ma (Great Aunt) at Shin-Osaka Station walking towards the subway

Tim’s Great-Aunt has been living in Osaka since she was 26 after finishing her medical degree there. She came to our wedding (we just realized it’s our 6 month anniversary already), so it was nice to be able to see her again this year. Tim doesn’t know her exact age, but she’s still working 4 days at week at the hospital (very impressive).

We took the subway to the hotel she booked for us for a week to drop off our bags before dinner. Osaka definitely feels like a huge city compared to Hiroshima and Fukuoka. I could only imagine what it would be like when we get to Tokyo. Tim says it’s good I eased my way into Japan, so I wouldn’t be so shocked going to Tokyo.

Tim’s Great-Aunt is very kind and hospitable and booked us at the Sheraton Miyako Osaka for a week when she found out we were coming to Osaka. This hotel is the nicest hotel we have/will stay at on our trip (Tim’s scared I’m going to get spoiled now). When we walked into the lobby with our huge backpacks and our hoodies, it felt like we didn’t really belong. Our room is on a the 18th floor so it has great views of the city. It is a normal North American sized room, which feels huge compared to the Japanese sized rooms we’ve been staying at the last few days. We’re both really happy to be able to just settled down here for a week.

Roomies!
Roomies!
Large bathroom by Japanese standards
Large bathroom by Japanese standards

Once we dropped our bags off, Tim’s 7-Yi Ma (Great-Aunt) took us for dinner at a restaurant in the mall that’s connected to the hotel. The restaurant was on the top floor of the mall and specialized in unagi. Tim mentioned that last time he was here with Jessica, his Great Aunt always took them out for unagi so he predicted we would have that for dinner as well, and he was right. She ordered dinner sets for us as well as an appetizer of tamago (egg) with unagi inside and a skewer of unagi innards.

Tamago with unagi inside
Tamago with unagi inside
Skewer of unagi innards. It was coated in unagi sauce so it wasn't bad. I just kept thinking they were clams (since it was chewy) and not unagi innards.
Skewer of unagi innards. It was coated in unagi sauce so it wasn’t bad. I just kept thinking they were clams (since it was chewy) and not unagi innards.
Dinner set: tempura, steamed egg, sashimi, unagi, rice and soup
Dinner set: tempura, steamed egg, sashimi, unagi, rice and soup
Us with 7-Yi Ma (Great Aunt) outside the restaurant in Osaka
Us with 7-Yi Ma (Great Aunt) outside the restaurant in Osaka

After a delicious meal, 7-Yi Ma brought us downstairs to the grocery store and bought us fruit. I was joking to Tim that she probably looked at us and thought we needed to eat more fresh fruit. She bought us strawberries and oranges. Japanese fruits are all so perfect looking. We just finished eating the strawberries, they were all very sweet.

Perfect Japanese strawberries
Perfect Japanese strawberries

We decided to just relax in the hotel and catch up on the blog and roughly plan out our week. Looking forward to spending time in one place (with a couple of day trips close by). I think if we had to move out of a hotel room each night, I would burn out very quickly.

As always it’s so nice to have family around, and 7-Yi Ma has been so sweet to us. I know we are extremely lucky to be surrounded by such loving families.

Our total steps today: 22,000