Seoul (Day 31): Spring has Sprung

March 31, 2016

I suppose the beds at Hotel Shin Shin are comfortable because we both slept in and with Seoul being one hour ahead, we didn’t leave the hotel until about 11am! We did a quick look at the map and decided that we’d check out the Gyeongbokgung Palace, Insadong and Myeongdong shopping streets. The weather today was perfect, sunny and a high of 20 degrees Celsius.

Hotel Shin Shin entrance in the day light
Hotel Shin Shin entrance in the day light

The Gyeonbokgung Palace wasn’t too far from the hotel so we started making our way there on foot. The walk there was a nice walk along Seoul’s business district and we passed by City Hall. There were lots of high rises and businessmen in suits walking around. We’ve both noticed that the male to female ratio in Seoul’s business district seems to be like 10:1 (Where are all the business women?).

Seoul is a very modern city, Tim described it well when he mentioned it felt a bit like Berlin.  Like Berlin, much of Seoul was destroyed during the Korean War and they had to rebuild everything in the last 50 years, making it a very modern city with lots of (destructive) history.

On our way to the Gyeongbokgung Palace, we came across a large statue of King Sejong. He is most known for inventing the Korean alphabet in the 15th century. Previous to his invention, Korea was using Chinese logograms to represent their language, which left some parts of the Korean language without appropriate written representation. Later in the day, we found out that up until a few years ago, learning to read and write Chinese characters was still in the school curriculum in South Korea, but apparently they are moving away from that.

Seoul City Hall
Seoul City Hall
These are useful since there are a lot of smokers in Seoul
This no smoking sign is useful and cute
We weren't sure if there was a special event going on today, but there were so many police on each street
We weren’t sure if there was a special event going on today, but there were so many police officers on block until we got to the palace gates
Along the middle of the boulevard, they had signs and tents honouring and reminding people to not forget the ferry disaster of 2014
Along the middle of the boulevard, they had signs and tents honouring and reminding people to not forget the ferry disaster in 2013
Tim in front of the King Sejong statue. He was the inventor of the Korean alphabet
Tim in front of the King Sejong statue. He was the inventor of the Korean alphabet
Below the King Sejong statue was a extensive museum about his life and the invention of the Korean alphabet (Hangeul)
Below the King Sejong statue was a extensive museum about his life and the invention of the Korean alphabet (Hangeul)

After going through King Sejong’s museum (free admission), we made it to the entrance of Gyeongbokgung Palace. It was about 12:30pm, and we hadn’t eaten lunch yet so we decided to get something to eat before heading in. Our good friend, Sabine, lived in South Korea for about a year, so we asked her for some recommendations. She told us there was a really good ginseng chicken place close to the palace so we made our way there for lunch.

We made to the Gyeonbokgung Palace gates
In front of the Gyeonbokgung Palace gates
Line up at Tosokchon Samgyetang. The restaurant is large so the line went quickly
Line up at Tosokchon Samgyetang. The restaurant is large so the line went quickly

The restaurant is called Tosokchon Samgyetang and it specializes in their ginseng chicken soup (Samgyetang). There was a huge line up when we got there around 12:45pm, but the restaurant is like a compound inside with different rooms, so the wait was only around 10 minutes. All the dining rooms required customers to take their shoes off before they sat down. We sat down and ordered their ginseng chicken and a roasted chicken. When the dishes came, we realized (again) that it was a lot of food for us.

Everything we had was really tasty, but we regretted ordering two chicken dishes because it was too much chicken (2 full chickens!). I regret not ordering a seafood pancake as planned. We decided we’d have a light dinner tonight!

Inside the restaurant
Inside the restaurant
Traditional seating area - shoes off
Traditional seating area – shoes off
Roasted chicken was a whole chicken. It was juicy and delicious (15,000 KRW = $17 CAD)
Roasted chicken was a whole chicken. It was juicy and delicious (15,000 KRW = $17 CAD)
Ginseng chicken soup. It was a whole chicken in a simmering ginseng broth with congee like rice
Ginseng chicken soup. It was a whole chicken in a simmering ginseng broth with congee like rice (16,000 KRW = $18.15 CAD)

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Our first kimchi in Korea. They leave a pot of kimchi and daikon kimchi on the table. You can take as much as you like
Our first kimchi in Korea. They leave a pot of kimchi and daikon kimchi on the table. You can take as much as you like

After lunch we walked back to Gyeongbokgung Palace to spend the rest of the afternoon. Admission to the palace is 3,000 KRW = $3.40 CAD. Gyeongbokgung Palace was built in 1395 and was destroyed once during the Japanese invasions during the 1500s and then restored in the 19th century by the reigning king at the time. During the Japanese occupation in the early 1900’s, they dismantled the majority of the palace only leaving a couple of the main buildings. That being said, much of the palace that stands today are not the original buildings. They plan to finish the entire palace as it originally was by 2045.

We walked around the palace grounds ourselves but then went back to the entrance to meet a guide for a free English tour. This ended up being really informative as there weren’t many informational signs in English around the palace.

With one of the guards
With one of the guards. They all have (fake) beards. (Tim: I really hope there are a few super committed dudes that grew out beards for their job).
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Changing of the guards
Changing of the guards
The building behind us is one of the two buildings that is an original
The building behind us is one of the two buildings that is an original (from the 1800s, not 1300s)
Girls wearing Hanboks (Korean dresses)
Girls wearing Hanboks (Korean dresses)
Cherry blossoms are starting to bloom in Seoul
Cherry blossoms are starting to bloom in Seoul
King and Queen's recreational area where they would read and relax
King and Queen’s recreational area where they would read and relax
In front of the royal banquet hall
In front of the royal banquet hall
Us with our English guide
Us with our English guide

After the tour ended, we exited behind the palace to see the “Blue House”, where the President works and lives. It called Cheong Wa Dae, but is nicknamed the “Blue House” because the roof is blue tiled. It is located right behind the palace grounds. When we went to take a look, there was a lot of security and secret service looking guys all around the grounds.

Blue House in the distance
Blue House in the distance
South Korean flags lined the streets
South Korean flags lined the streets. The palace is on the other side of the wall

We eventually made our way to the Insadong area. Insadong is known for their arts and craft stores. There were a lot of art galleries and stores that sold Korean stationary. It was a neat street and I would like to go back and take a closer look at the stores another day.

Walking through Insadong
Walking through Insadong
Korean Starbucks
Korean Starbucks
This store had a lot of really nice teas and this green tea milk spread was delicious!
This store had a lot of really nice teas and this green tea milk spread was delicious! Thinking of buying some to bring back home

After walking through Insadong, we made our way back towards our hotel by walking through the famous Myeondong shopping area. Before we got to the crazy shopping part of Myeongdong Street, we stumbled upon the Myeongdong Cathedral. It is the first Catholic church in Seoul and was built in 1892. When it was built, you used to be able to see the cathedral from most places around Seoul as it was built on a hill, but now with all the high rises it’s no longer that visible.

Myeongdong Cathedral or also known as the Cathedral Church of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception
Myeongdong Cathedral or also known as the Cathedral Church of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception

Seeing the Cathedral was the calm before the storm as we made our way into Myeongdong’s shopping area. Since being in Asia, I hadn’t been in such a dense area with that many people. Even at Shilin Night market in Taipei, it didn’t feel this crowded. Myeongdong is Seoul’s shopping district filled with endless beauty product stores (you can buy face masks in bulk here), sock stands, high end brands and department stores. I can see why people just shop when they come to Seoul. Since this isn’t really (Tim: “or not in the slightest”) a shopping trip for us, I have to limit myself to socks and maybe some masks.

Along the streets were also food vendors, which was where we ended up having dinner. We had kalbi meatballs, japchae bulgogi and black soybean noodles. Everything was good, prices are higher than street food in Taiwan but I think we just have to get used to everything being more expensive here. We took out 300,000 KRW = $340 CAD for our 6 days in Seoul and have already used up a third. We’ll have to take out more cash or start to use our credit card.

Busy streets of Myeongdong
Busy streets of Myeongdong
Korean socks! 1000 KRW each = $1.15 CAD (buy 10 get 1 free) I'll be back...
Korean socks! 1000 KRW each = $1.15 CAD (buy 10 get 1 free) I’ll be back…
Kalbi meatballs (3000 KRW = $3.40 CAD)
Kalbi meatballs (3000 KRW = $3.40 CAD)
Animated noodle vendor
Animated noodle vendor. He spoke Mandarin and Korean
Black soybean noodles (3000 KRW = $3.40 CAD)
Black soybean noodles (3000 KRW = $3.40 CAD)
I ordered japchae bulgogi (4000 KRW = $4.50 CAD)
I ordered japchae bulgogi (4000 KRW = $4.50 CAD)
I put way too much hot sauce and my mouth was on fire
I put way too much hot sauce and my mouth was on fire. The hot sauce is way spicier than Sriracha!
Tim posing in Myeongdong
Tim posing in Myeongdong (Tim: by request)

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We called it an early night, getting back to the hotel around 8pm. We have an early morning tomorrow as our tour for the DMZ leaves at 7:45am. We have to take the train to the another area to meet our tour. We ended up picking Koridoor tours after reading their reviews on Trip Advisor. Looking forward to an interesting day tomorrow.

Total steps for today: 25,000

Taipei/Seoul (Day 30): Annyeonghaseyo, Seoul!

March 30, 2015

We woke up earlier this morning to finish packing and clean up the apartment before we left for Seoul. Uncle Albert picked us up at around 10:15am and we headed to Taoyuan for our flight to Seoul’s Incheon Airport at 1:25pm. The airport is about an hour drive from central Taipei. Hopefully when we come back in a few years they will have finished the train line connecting central Taipei to Taoyuan Airport.

It was my first time flying Korean Air and Tim’s second time (he flew with them to Brazil). The flight wasn’t full as they moved us up about ten rows when we checked in at the counter. There were a lot of Americans on our flight as it was a code share flight with Delta and it seemed like a lot of people were connecting through Seoul en route back to North America.

We had about an hour to kill at Taoyuan before our flight boarded. We decided to have lunch, unsure if we were going to get anything to eat since the flight was only 2 hours. There was only one restaurant near our gate that served Taiwanese set rice sets and noodles. We shared a pork chop rice set and I got a drink from the vending machine since it was priced the same as outside the airport at 20 NT = $0.80 CAD.

Our shared lunch at the airport. Pork chop set was 210 NT = $8.40 CAD. The Sarsparilla soda was 20 NT = $0.80 CAD from the vending machine. But I paid 30 NT since it ate one of my coins...
Our shared lunch at the airport. Pork chop set was 210 NT = $8.40 CAD. The Heysong Sarsparilla soda was 20 NT = $0.80 CAD from the vending machine. But I paid 30 NT since it ate one of my coins…
Hello Kitty store at the airport. Taiwan loves Hello Kitty!
Hello Kitty store at the airport. Taiwan loves Hello Kitty!

Our flight went by pretty quickly and we did end up getting a meal on the plane – oh well, now we know. We landed in Seoul-Incheon at 4:30pm (South Korea is an hour ahead of Taiwan). Looking out the window, it was a sunny day but it was very hazy so it was hard to even see the mountains in the distance. We haven’t seen a clear blue sky in a while.

When we got off the plane, we had to take a tram to immigration and baggage claim. Once we got off the tram, we went to the immigration area and the line up for foreign passports was crazy. It took us about an hour to get through customs (I hate line ups!). After we got through and went to the baggage area, all the bags from our flight were already taken off the carousel. We found our backpacks and headed to the bus area.

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Hour line up at immigration
Incheon Airport - pretty flower display
Incheon Airport – pretty flower display

The bus area was another gong show. We had to take bus #6015 to get close to our hotel which is in the Myeong-dong area of Seoul. We lined up to board the bus then and realized we needed to buy tickets from the ticket counter before boarding (tickets were 10,000 KRW each = $11.30 CAD). We ended up finally leaving the airport at 6:4opm. The bus ride into the city is about 70 minutes long – I fell asleep along the way and only woke up when the bus started to make stops. The bus doesn’t make any stops until you get into the city centre (which is after 50 minutes).

Waiting for our bus into Seoul
Waiting for our bus into Seoul
Hazy Incheon
Hazy Incheon

When I woke up, we were in the city and everything felt big, busy and bright. My first impression of Seoul is that it’s very modern looking and a bit overwhelming. Finally, we got to our stop, Namdaemun Market, and walked to our hotel which was about 3 minutes away. Yesterday, I watched the hotel’s instructional video on how to get from the bus stop to the hotel. It was really helpful and we didn’t even need to look at a map!

We’re staying at Hotel Shin Shin in the Myeong-dong/Namdaemun area. I found the hotel while looking on Trip Advisor as it has really good ratings and is one of the top hotels in Seoul that isn’t a branded hotel (and is very reasonable at $85 CAD a night). Our room is another two single bed set ups, which I picked because it was the cheapest room option (Tim and I are roommates again). The room is fairly small but very functional and everything in it is modern.

Entrance to the hotel
Hotel Shin Shin – boutique hotel in Seoul
Our room at Hotel Shin Shin
Our room at Hotel Shin Shin

After we settled in and rested a bit, we went out to walk around and look for dinner. It was about 8:30pm and we were starting to get hungry. When we stepped outside, it felt like we were in Vancouver because of the crisp cold air (about 12 degrees Celsius). We decided to go to the Namdaemun Market to see if they had street food, but when we went there everything was closing. I think we took for granted that not all markets are night markets like in Taiwan. We walked around the neighbouring streets and mainly found restaurants filled with Korean businessmen drinking and smoking outside. It was interesting, there weren’t many women around at all and Tim kept asking if I felt uncomfortable (I didn’t). Seoul definitely has a lot more smokers than in Taipei – just based on walking around this area. It seemed like everyone was outside smoking. We looked at the restaurants that did have menus outside and noticed that the prices were a lot more than Taipei. The prices are more similar to Vancouver pricing for food.

Bars and restaurants filled with Korean businessmen
Bars and restaurants filled with Korean businessmen
These food stalls looked interesting
These food stalls looked interesting
We found a Gong Cha (bubble tea shop), but it's North American prices... made me miss Taiwan
We found a Gong Cha (Taiwanese bubble tea shop), but it’s North American prices… made me miss Taiwan
 Sungnyemun (Southern Gate) surrounded by modern high rise office buildings
Sungnyemun (Southern Gate) surrounded by modern high rise office buildings

We walked around for about an hour and then decided to go to this noodle restaurant we passed by closer to our hotel. It looked clean and had locals eating there so we decided to give it a try. The waitress was very nice and knew we didn’t speak Korean – we pointed to the pictures and ordered spicy noodles, fried dumplings and sweet and sour pork. When the food came, we were both surprised at how large the portions were (mainly the size of the dumplings). Next time we don’t need to order that much.

Tim eating his spicy noodles - it was spicy but very tasty (5000 KRW = $5.65 CAD)
Tim eating his spicy noodles – it was spicy but very tasty (5000 KRW = $5.65 CAD)
6 dumplings were 5000 KRW = $5.65 CAD and the sweet and sour pork was 9000 KRW = $10.20 CAD
6 dumplings were 5000 KRW = $5.65 CAD and the sweet and sour pork was 9000 KRW = $10.20 CAD

Everything was very good but spicy – even the dumplings. We drank all the water they gave us and Tim was sweating like crazy. I guess we’re not used to the Korean heat.

We came back to the hotel and washed up. We’re looking forward to exploring Seoul tomorrow, it’s always exciting to explore a new city together. So far we hadn’t encountered any issues with language barriers yet. I’m practicing saying thank you in Korean, “gomabseubnida”, so at least we can be polite tourists.

Step count will be updated tomorrow, Tim is sleeping already.

Gomabseubnida (Thank you) for reading!