Tokyo/Okinawa (Day 55): A Warm Tropical Welcome

April 24, 2016

After a relatively late night of packing and getting things sorted, we woke up and were on our way out of the apartment by 11am (which was also our check out time). We were happy with our Airbnb experience in Tokyo and would be happy to stay in that apartment again.

Goodbye Tokyo apartment!
Goodbye Tokyo apartment!
Apartment entrance in Shinjuku
Apartment entrance in Shinjuku

We made our way to Shinjuku Station to take the train to Haneda Airport. It’s nice that we’re flying out of Haneda since it’s a lot closer to the city centre than Narita is. Our flight to Naha, Okinawa was at 2:45pm. We arrived at the domestic terminal at 12pm and took our time getting to the gate. While on the train, we were happy that our flight was on a Sunday, since maneuvering around the station and being on the train with our backpacks would be horrific during a weekday.

On the Yamanote line
On the Yamanote line. We both got seats.
Haneda Domestic Terminal
Haneda Domestic Terminal

There are a quite a few stores in the public areas of the airport but once you cross security there isn’t much in the domestic terminal. We had lunch at Tenya (the same tempura don place we ate at in Osaka). Tim and I both agreed that we can eat cheaply in Japan and would be happy with it as we don’t seem to appreciate (Tim: the value proposition of) super expensive tempura. The jumbo prawn tempura I had in Roppongi Hills was the most expensive tempura I’ve eaten – at $12 for one piece (Tim: more than our entire meals combined at Tenya)!

At Tenya. We both got the same regular ten don with miso for 500 JPY = $5.65 CAD
At Tenya. We both got the same regular ten don with miso for 500 JPY = $5.65 CAD. The basic tendon had a piece of fish, squid, squash, prawn and some green beans.

Haneda is a nice airport, though the domestic terminal is kind of lacking in stores, I’m sure the international terminal is much better. Since we are flying ANA back home in July, we will be connecting through Haneda again for two hours before our final flight back to Vancouver. I was trying to scout out what stores are available on the international side (past security) so I know what I don’t need to buy until July.

They had a robot showing people how to do the self-check in. It was pretty neat. It knew when I was close it because it looked up at me. Too bad we couldn't speak Japanese.
They had a robot showing people how to do the self-check in. It was pretty neat. It knew when I was close to it because it looked up at me. Too bad we couldn’t speak Japanese.
When I walked away from it, it turned to watch me leave. That was a bit creepy.
When I walked away from it, it turned to watch me leave. That was a bit creepy.

While planning out Japan, one of the first two flights we booked was our flights to Okinawa and Sapporo. We knew we wanted to go to these two places but since they’re either not on the mainland or pretty far north, it wasn’t as easily accessible with the JR train pass. Luckily, I remembered my former manager talking about cheap domestic flights within Japan that are only available for foreigners. We did some research online and booked our two flights as soon as the flights for the spring and summer were available.

All domestic flights within Japan (regardless of how far) can be booked for 10,800 JPY = $120 CAD. This is a really good price and you also get the full amount of miles (Aeroplan points) for the discounted fare (Tim: I can’t remember the last time I got full miles on an Air Canada flight… you have to purchase Flex Fares which are close to double the price of their typically advertised Tango Fares.). All you have to do is provide your passport info as well as your booking number for your arrival and departure flights to Japan. You can book these discounted fares through the ANA’s Experience Japan Fare or through JAL’s Japan Explorer Pass (JAL seems to also have something called the Yokoso/Visit Japan Fare and Welcome to Japan Fare which seem to be similar promotions). We picked ANA mainly because it’s part of Star Alliance, so if you collect Aeroplan points, it’s best to fly ANA as JAL is part of One World (Cathay, British Airways, etc). When we looked to book the exact same flights as we wanted without the foreigner’s promotion, the price of the tickets were over $800 per person. A lot of people know about the JR pass but if you need to go between cities quickly or ones that aren’t as accessible, taking advantage of these cheap tickets is the way to go.

thumb_IMG_0693_1024

Our plane took about 20 minutes on the tarmac before taking off. They had to double check something on the plane. The flight to Okinawa was about 2.5 hours, and there was quite a bit of turbulence as we were getting closer to landing. The plane was a lot bigger than I thought it would be for a domestic flight (Tim: 777), but I guess Okinawa is a popular destination for a lot of Japanese people.

It was my first time flying ANA and I was actually surprised they only served us drinks for this flight, but I guess it was only a domestic flight. Drinks choices were green tea, apple juice, coffee and chicken consommé (?!).

As soon as we landed, you could tell it was super humid as the windows on the plane on the outside fogged up immediately. We were now closer to Taiwan than were to mainland Japan. When we got out of the plane, you could feel the warm tropical air and it was 27 degrees Celsius. Walking through the terminal, it felt like Hawaii in a sense. Everyone waiting for their flight out of Okinawa were in shorts and t-shirts and were slightly tanned or burned. And it seemed like the staff uniform for a lot of stores were floral printed shirts – very tropical looking.

We caught the monorail (which was only 2 cars long) to Asahibashi Station and walked about 8 minutes to our guest house. This was our first test walking with our backpacks in tropical weather and we both were sweating quite a bit. Are we going to die in Vietnam in June? (Tim: I’m pretty sure we won’t die since humans are pretty good at heat acclimatization).

When we we finally got to Villa Coast Nishimachi Guest House, we followed the instructions for the self-check in (the reception is only open until 6pm) which is pretty easy since they also sent me an email after we booked with instructions on how to get there and check in. We booked a double bed studio off Expedia after reading really good reviews about this place. When we got into the room, I was both very pleasantly surprised with the space and cleanliness for $62.44 CAD a night.

My mailbox for checking in
My mailbox for checking in
View from the front door. Kitchen on the left, washroom and laundry to the right.
View from the front door. Kitchen on the left, washroom and laundry to the right.
Double bed with a computer desk
Double bed with a computer desk
Sink and laundry with the bath tube and shower to the left.
Sink and laundry with the bath tub and shower to the left.
Tub and shower room with Shiseido soaps and shampoo
Tub and shower room with Shiseido soaps and shampoo

I realize that when posting these pictures for people back home, this doesn’t look very impressive but anything that’s extremely clean (Tim: not too hard to find in Japan), we’re happy with. And if it has a washer, even better! I see why this place has high ratings on TripAdvisor, there’s a guide for the room and even a list of suggested restaurants around the area that are favourites of the guest house managers. Although reception isn’t around 24 hours and it feels like we’re staying in an apartment rather than a hotel, you feel very supported.

Our hosts :) AJ was the one who emailed me about how to get there and the check in process.
Our hosts 🙂 AJ was the one who emailed me about how to get there and the check in process.
View from our balcony. I guess we got a ocean view :P
View from our balcony on the top floor. I guess we got a ocean view 😛

We decided to pick a place from the suggested restaurants for dinner tonight and plan out our next three days in Okinawa. We went to an Izakaya restaurant called, Himitsu-Kichi, about a 3 minute walk away. The building looked a bit tiki-hut-ish and we were seated upstairs in our own private little booth. All the food was really good, and the drinks were very cheap (alcoholic cocktails were only like $3 CAD, too bad I don’t really drink). We ordered a salad, chicken skewers, grilled squid, an omurice with gravy, chicken karaage, an Orion Beer (an Okinawan Beer), and coke for 3,988 JPY = $45 CAD.

Tim drinking the Orion Beer
Tim drinking the Orion Beer
Tofu and pork sliced salad with sesame dressing 399 JPY = $4.50 CAD
Tofu and pork sliced salad with sesame dressing 399 JPY = $4.50 CAD
5 chicken skewers for 399 JPY = $4.50 CAD
5 chicken skewers for 399 JPY = $4.50 CAD
Grilled squid for 650 JPY = $7.35 CAD
Grilled squid for 650 JPY = $7.35 CAD
Om Rice with gravy = $6.75 CAD
Om Rice with gravy = $6.75 CAD
Chicken Karaage 450 JPY = $5.10 CAD
Chicken Karaage 450 JPY = $5.10 CAD

After a delicious first meal in Okinawa, we headed back to the guest house and bought some water along the way at Family Mart. It was now pouring rain (but still very warm) on our walk back. It’s rainy season right now, so hopefully it won’t be crazy rain all the time.

I first heard about Okinawa while working at my Aunt’s store in Stanley Park (Tim: and I first hear about Okinawa while watching The Karate Kid Part II… looking forward to witnessing some ice breaking, since that’s a thing right?). I used to work there each summer when I was younger and got to meet a lot of people from around the world. One of my coworkers was from Okinawa and I heard it was like the “Hawaii of Japan”. The way she described home sounded awesome. She’s one of the nicest people I’ve ever met, so when I think of Okinawans, I think of her. Since then, I’ve always wanted to visit.

The city of Naha is a very slow and quiet town from what we’ve seen so far. A totally different scene from Tokyo. It feels nice to take it down a notch after being in two large cities back to back.

Looking forward to exploring more of the island and seeing a very different part of Japan.

Steps today: 8,000

Osaka (Day 42): Overwhelmed in Dotonburi

April 11, 2016

It was our first morning in Osaka and the sun was shining. We didn’t have any plans for today, which was nice. We took our time getting ready and did a bit of planning for the upcoming legs of our trip. The hotel has a pretty large desk that both Tim and I could work on (perfect set up). We decided to just walk around the city and head towards the popular Dotonburi area for lunch.

Morning views of Osaka
Morning views of Osaka. It’s a pretty sprawling city
thumb_IMG_7555_1024
Our hotel in the background

When we walked outside, the sun was shining but it was very windy and there was a cold breeze that we haven’t felt since leaving Vancouver at the end of February. We walked briskly and made sure we were on the sunny side of the sidewalk to stay warm. It was about a 10 minute walk to the Dotonburi area, not 25 minutes according to Google Maps.

Once we got to Dotonburi, I was feeling very overwhelmed with all the craziness and frenzy of the area. There were so many tourists and people in general that it made trying to decide where to eat difficult. The prices around that area are a lot more inflated than what we saw on the way to Dotonburi (obviously). There were a lot of takoyaki street stalls, which Osaka is famous for, that we’ll save for another night. We walked up and down the streets and couldn’t decide or find something that we thought looked like good value. We decided to walk one block out of the craziness and ended up going to a ten don restaurant (tempura restaurant).

In Dotonburi
In Dotonburi
Dotonburi (it's more famous for its night time neon signage). Osaka is just like Europe (right, Tim?!)
Dotonburi (it’s more famous for its night time neon signage). Osaka is just like Europe because of the canals and rivers! (right, Tim?!)
The famous Glico sign. We'll be back tomorrow night to take pictures of all the neon lights!
The famous Glico sign. We’ll be back tomorrow night to take pictures of all the neon lights!
Cool building with rock climbing wall outside
Cool building with rock climbing wall outside

The restaurant is called “Tenya”, it’s a casual Japanese restaurant that serves assorted tempuras over rice. It’s a Japanese chain that is based out of Tokyo. Inside the restaurant were a lot of locals having their lunch breaks (I guess they know not to even go into the main part of Dotonburi for lunch).

Tenya, Osaka
Tenya, Osaka
My lunch set, ten don (tempura on rice) with zaru udon (cold udon that you dip). 720 JPY = $8.60 CAD
My lunch set, ten don (tempura on rice) with zaru udon (cold udon that you dip). 720 JPY = $8.60 CAD. Ten Don was 500 JPY and I added zaru udon for 220 JPY
Tim ordered a ten don that had more of an assortment of tempura (670 JPY = $8 CAD)
Tim ordered a ten don that had more of an assortment of tempura (670 JPY = $8 CAD)

The food came quickly and it was tasty. I think we were both very hungry as we ate pretty fast. After we finished lunch, we continued to walk around the shopping area, hoping to make it to the Yodo River. We ended up in an area called, Shinsaibashi, which is Osaka’s main shopping district.

Each new street has a different looking entrance
Each new street has a different looking entrance
Shinsaibashi shopping area is all undercover and seems to go on forever
Shinsaibashi shopping area is an undercover street and seems to go on forever

We went into a Uniqlo and stayed there for about an hour. We’ve been into multiple Uniqlos in Taiwan, Seoul and now Japan, but this is the first one I’ve been in where I actually tried on some clothes. I had a basket full of clothes to try on and went to the fitting room. When the sales associate lead me to the room, I walked in and she politely told me I needed to take my shoes off. Now I know that you have to take your shoes off while trying clothes on in Japan. I’m a North American small or sometimes medium, but here, I’m a medium or large(!!). At first my basket was full of items that were good deals but not practical for the trip, so after some thinking, I ended up buying practical items that I would need on this trip. These were mainly their Airism tank tops (light fabric that’s anti-odor and anti-bacterial) and a HeatTech long-sleeve (that I feel like I’ll need for here and for Sapporo). Airism tank tops and HeatTech were all 990 JPY = $11.80 CAD). Tim was [is] very patient with me at Uniqlo (Tim: fixed that for you), he found WiFi and sat on the bench and waited for me.

It’s too bad that for Tax Free shopping in Japan, you need to buy a minimum of 10,000 JPY = $119 CAD at one store in order to get 8% tax back. In Korea, you only needed to spend around $30 CAD. A small annoyance about Japan is that they charge tax on top of the marked price (just like North America) (Tim: Not universally, some places include tax, some places don’t). This is uncommon in Asia, as all the others countries I’ve been to have tax included in their prices.

We walked a bit more through Shinsaibashi and went into a couple more stores to browse. There was a 3 level Sanrio Store, which got me excited. My Mom used to own a Sanrio Store in Vancouver when I was young and I have always loved Sanrio stuff. I went to each floor and looked at everything, the one big difference between the Japanese Sanrio store and ones they had North America (do they even have any stores left?) is that they don’t have a candy section. I was looking forward to getting some cool gum or suckers.

Sanrio Gallery in Shinsaibashi, Osaka
Sanrio Gallery in Shinsaibashi, Osaka
So many pens and pencils! I used to love getting these when I was in elementary school. They were always the best mechanical pencils.
So many pens and pencils! I used to love getting these when I was in elementary school. They were always the best mechanical pencils.
I love Hello Kitty!
I love Hello Kitty! (just in case you couldn’t already tell)
Cafe GiGi Waffles
Maison de GiGi Waffles in Shinsaibashi
I tried the sakura mochi waffle (180 JPY = $2.15 CAD). The waffle itself was good, but it had an actual leaf on it and no mochi... maybe something was lost in translation
I tried the sakura mochi waffle (180 JPY = $2.15 CAD). The waffle itself was good, but it had an actual leaf on it and no mochi… maybe something was lost in translation. I eventually peeled the leaf off.
Starbucks' Osaka mug
Starbucks Osaka mug
Daiso! Most things are 100 JPY = $1.20 CAD. We just got a drink and mini green tea oreos
Daiso! Most things are 100 JPY = $1.20 CAD. We just got a drink and mini green tea oreos

After a fairly draining afternoon in Dotonburi and Shinsaibashi, we went back to the hotel to rest and do some work before we went back out at night. I ended up watching two episodes of the Amazing Race while I unpacked and repacked everything in my suitcase, did some laundry and took inventory of my Korean socks and face masks. Tim worked on his blog post about our final spending summary for Korea (which will be posted later today). Before we knew it, it was already 8:30pm when we went back out for dinner. We thought we would just stay close to the hotel and not go back out to Dotonburi as originally planned since we were likely going to end up there tomorrow night with my friend Mable and her boyfriend, Keith (who are also in Osaka for the next few days).

We went back to the top floor of the department store beside the hotel, where they have a bunch of restaurants. When we went outside for the short period of time to cross the street, it was really cold out. I think it was about 5 degrees Celsius, so it was good we stayed in tonight as we weren’t dressed appropriately.

We ended up picking a restaurant that had an assortment of udon and rice dishes. Tim got an Oyako Udon and I got a beef an egg donburi. Our dinner was very simple and quick. The food was good, but a tad overpriced compared to donburis outside of a department store.

thumb_IMG_7600_1024
Beef and egg on rice with miso (815 JPY = $9.70 CAD)
Tim's chicken and egg udon (880 JPY = $10.50 CAD)
Tim’s chicken and egg udon (880 JPY = $10.50 CAD)

Tomorrow we’ll be going to Osaka Castle and then meeting up with Mable and Keith for dinner around Dotonburi. We’re thinking of going to an izakaya since we’ll have more people so we can order and try more items. Looking forward to meeting up with friends from back home.

Today was a good, restful, and productive day. Osaka is a sprawling city and we’ve only ventured into a very narrow part of it. I’m looking forward to going to the Castle tomorrow and walking through the parks, away from the crowds for a nice afternoon stroll. I think I’m a mid-sized city kind of girl (if that’s even a thing). In terms of liveability, I can see myself living in some of the cities we’ve visited but it’s hard for me to picture living in a city as big as Seoul or Osaka. I enjoy big cities but I think large sprawling metropolitan areas intimidate me.

Steps Today: 14, 500