Osaka/Tokyo (Day 48): Konnichiwa, Tokyo!

April 17, 2016

This morning we woke up earlier to finish packing and to check out of our hotel. I’ll miss all the comforts of that hotel room for the rest of our trip. We were spoiled!

7 Yi-Ma met us in the lobby at 10am to bring us to her church for Sunday Service. The church that 7 Yi-Ma goes to is called Osaka Chinese Presbyterian Church. The congregation is 80% Taiwanese people living in Osaka and the rest are mostly Japanese people. The service is an hour and 45 minutes (a lot longer than a Catholic Mass), and is said in Mandarin and Japanese. It’s no wonder the service is long, because everything has to be repeated twice.

Osaka Chinese Presbyterian Church
Osaka Chinese Presbyterian Church

When we walked into the church, the greeter asked 7 Yi-Ma to write down our names and where we’re from so they could introduce us to the congregation at the end of the service. Tim was able to understand the majority of the service and translated bits and pieces of it to me on the spot. It was nice to be part of the service, even though I didn’t understand anything, I’m glad 7 Yi-Ma took us to her church. It felt like a very good community to be a part of and I’m glad that she has that in Osaka. We sat beside Tim’s extended relatives, they are 7 Yi-Ma’s oldest brother’s son. I know, a bit confusing, but they’re related to Tim (Tim: my first cousin, once removed, or more specifically, the oldest brother of my paternal grandma’s second son). Tim’s Dad’s side of the family is quite extensive and seem to be all over the globe.

Church program for today's service. 7 Yi-Ma is sitting in the middle of the congregation picture
Church program for today’s service. 7 Yi-Ma is sitting in the middle-front of the congregation picture in the cream coloured suit.
With 7 Yi-Ma and Tim's relatives outside the church after service
With 7 Yi-Ma and Tim’s relatives outside the church after service

After church we took the subway back to our hotel since we left our bags there. On the way to the restaurant for lunch, I noticed a cookie counter that Tim mentioned he really liked at Takashimaya, called Yoku Moku. I pointed to it to show him. 7 Yi-Ma saw me pointing to it and Tim told her that I recognized the brand because he told me about it yesterday. Then she b-lined it to their counter and bought us a variety of cookies to take with us home and for our train ride. That was very nice of her, but we also felt bad for pointing it out since she’s already been so generous to us during our time in Osaka.

The cookies are really good. I can see why Tim enjoys them. I just googled Yoku Moku and it looks like you can get them at Neiman Marcus and Shirokiya in Hawaii, so I won’t feel too bad if we eat them all before we get home (Tim: because we go to Hawaii all the time?).

Yoku Moku cookies
Yoku Moku cookies
She bought us "cigars" and the chocolate filled squares. Basically where there are two bags missing.
She bought us “cigars” and the chocolate filled squares. Basically where there are two bags missing (Tim: and which will soon be replaced).

For lunch, 7 Yi-Ma treated us to an unagi lunch. We went to the same restaurant as we did the first night we arrived in Osaka since that restaurant specializes in unagi. The unagi here ranged from 1,500 JPY  = $17 CAD to 3,100 JPY = $36 CAD. As Tim mentioned before, 7 Yi-Ma takes her unagi seriously and ordered the three of us the 3,100 JPY box. The set was presented in a square box and was delicious. She told us that you don’t have to eat all the rice, but we both did. We liked to pour more unagi sauce over the rice. They could probably tell we weren’t Japanese when we did that. It’s like people pouring soy sauce over their white rice (Tim: nothing wrong with that :P).

Unagi set: Box of unagi over rice, soup with unagi innards and pickles
Unagi set: Box of unagi over rice, soup with unagi innards and pickles

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After lunch, we took the subway towards Shin-Osaka Station, our Shinkansen (high speed rail) to Tokyo was leaving at 3:16pm. 7 Yi-Ma took the train with us until we had to transfer. I felt sad saying goodbye to her as we waved goodbye from the train. I think having to say goodbye to family on this trip has made me very emotional.

We got to Shin-Osaka with about 45 minutes to spare before our train left for Tokyo. I walked around the station looking at the bento box counter, which serves really good looking train food. Unfortunately, we were really full from lunch and we had cookies to eat so we didn’t get a bento. William had mentioned these specific boxes because there is a set that comes with a ceramic bowl that you can keep.

At Shin-Osaka Station with a very heavy backpack. I've added about 10 pounds since leaving Taipei.
At Shin-Osaka Station with a very heavy backpack. I’ve added about 10 pounds since leaving Taipei.
Bento box counter at Shin-Osaka
Bento box counter at Shin-Osaka
The ceramic bowl William was talking about
The ceramic bowl William was talking about
Didn't get to try this famous Osaka cheesecake. They only sell full cakes. I guess the price isn't too bad, if we only had a bigger fridge at the hotel.
Didn’t get to try this famous Osaka cheesecake. They only sell full cakes and not slices. I guess the price wasn’t too bad. If we only had a bigger fridge at the hotel.
Our Shinkansen to Tokyo
Our Shinkansen to Tokyo

Our train ride was just under 3 hours because our train made quite a few stops along the way. It went by quickly since I got to watch the Amazing Race and the Mindy Project. Then as usual, I fell asleep until we got to Tokyo Station.

Tokyo Station wasn’t as crazy as I imagined it to be. Maybe my expectations of the crowds here are very high so when we got there it was manageable, and I suppose it was a Sunday, and not a weekday. We transferred to the Chuo Line to get to Shinjuku Station. We booked an apartment on Airbnb that is about a 7 minute walk from Shinjuku Station. We followed the host’s instructions and didn’t have any problems finding the place. It’s amazing that you can go from an area with thousands of people to an area where it’s clearly more residential and is very quiet within a couple of blocks.

When we got into the apartment, everything was exactly like the pictures and it is very clean. The location is really central considering we are only paying $85 CAD/night (before taxes and fees, the list price seems to be around $110 CAD/night normally, but we booked last minute and the room was still available so the price probably dropped). Most hotels in central Tokyo are closer to $200/night. The apartment also has a washing machine, which is great. We won’t have to hand wash while we’re here. The host also provided a portable cellular wif hotspot, which we can bring around with us while in Tokyo. (Tim: Speeds aren’t so great though).

Double bed with a basket of towels. This is actually the same bed frame from Ikea that Tim has at home.
Double bed with a basket of towels. This is actually the same bed frame from Ikea that Tim has at home.
Kitchen to the right, washroom to the left. The washing machine is right by the front door.
Kitchen to the right, washroom to the left. The washing machine is right by the front door.
Toilet is in its own room
Toilet is in its own room
Shower and sink are together. Whole floor gets wet when you shower because there's no shower curtain.
Shower and sink are together. Whole floor gets wet when you shower because there’s no shower curtain.
View from our balcony of Shinjuku area. It's unfortunate that there's meshing.
View from our balcony of Shinjuku area. It’s unfortunate that there’s like a net around the balcony.

We settled in and I looked up some sushi restaurants in the Shinjuku area. Since coming to Japan, we haven’t really had much sushi since there’s so many other options. I felt like having sushi today and wanted to try a conveyor belt restaurant. Unlike North American conveyor belt sushi restaurants, the ones in Japan seem very popular amongst locals and they serve quality sushi.

Shinjuku
Shinjuku

We headed out towards the part of Shinjuku where all the action is and searched for Numakuzo. When we found the restaurant, there was a line up (it was around 8:30pm), we waited about 10 minutes before being seated. I actually don’t think I’ve been to a conveyor belt sushi place before. I only remember that Daimatsu (where Ebisu is now) in Richmond used to have one a long time ago.

The restaurant was filled with Japanese people and tourists (I see that it’s been listed in Lonely Planet). When we sat down, there weren’t that many plates going around as I guess we came at a really busy time so the sushi chefs weren’t keeping up. If you don’t see something you like you can order it directly from the sushi chef. After you’re done, the waitress comes and counts the number of plates you have. Overall, I thought the sushi was really good. My favourite was the Bluefin Otoro (fatty tuna) which melted in our mouths. It was our most expensive piece at 520 JPY = $6 CAD. You can get this at some restaurants in Vancouver for about $12-$15 per piece.

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Numazuko in Shinjuku
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Each seating station has a hot water tap and green tea teabags for you to make your own tea and a bucket of ginger
Price per plate
Price per plate
Blue fin fatty tuna. Most other nigiris comes with 2 pieces per plate, except for this one.
Blue fin Otoro. Most other nigiris comes with 2 pieces per plate, except for this one.
Some of our sushi. I ate some before taking a picture.
Some of our sushi. I ate some before taking a picture.
Fatty salmon and medium fatty tuna. Yum! Our pile of plates is getting higher.
Fatty salmon and medium fatty tuna. Yum! Our pile of plates is getting higher.
Amaebi (raw prawns), they put three prawns on each piece of rice.
Amaebi (raw prawns), they put three prawns on each piece of rice.
We're done.. we ate more than we expected. Everything was very tasty. We spent 4,492 JPY (after tax) = $53 CAD.
We’re done.. we ate more than we expected. Everything was very tasty. We spent 4,492 JPY (after tax) = $53 CAD.

We ate more than I expected and it worked out to be about $53 CAD, which isn’t too bad considering we had some pretty special pieces of fish, like the Bluefin Otoro. We walked back towards the apartment and stopped by Lawson’s to buy some yogurt for breakfast tomorrow morning.

My first impression of Tokyo is that the city is huge – taller buildings, bright lights, super wide cross walks and lots of people. I feel very insignificant in a city like this. Even though Shinjuku was very busy (around the few streets that we walked through), it didn’t bother me as much as I thought. I think it’s because it’s like an organized chaos and there’s no one pushing you out of the way to get past you (like in Hong Kong). We’ll see how I feel tomorrow, maybe we’ll see more tour groups.

Steps today: 10,500

Miyajima/Hiroshima/Osaka (Day 41): Oh Deer!

April 10, 2016

We woke up later than we planned on but the bed was really comfortable. Tim researched that high tide in Miyajima was around 11:00am so we were still good on time. We checked out of the hotel and left our bags there around 9:30am. We decided to just walk to Hiroshima Station since we just missed one of the street cars and didn’t see any other one in the near distance. The walk was actually really nice and refreshing.

Tangram cranes line the Hiroshima Station walls
Heart-shaped “Tangram” peace cranes line the Hiroshima Station walls

We made it to Hiroshima Station with a bit of time to spare as the next train leaving for Miyajima was at 10:13am. I bought a tuna onigiri (110 JPY = $1.30 CAD) and grape juice (100 JPY = $1.20 CAD) from 7-Eleven for breakfast on the train. The train ride to Miyajima was only about 20 minutes (Tim: we caught an express train that only made a few stops), so it was a quick ride there. Once we arrived, we had to take a short ferry across to Itsukushima, where the famous O-torii Gate is in the water.

On the ferry to Itsukushima. You can see the O-torii Gate ("floating" red gate) in the background
On the ferry to Itsukushima. You can see the O-torii Gate (“floating” red gate) in the background

When we got off the ferry and walked a short distance through town towards the shrine and O-torii Gate, we were greeted by some friendly Japanese deer.

Deer just hanging out
Deer just hanging out
Deers were all over the island and were very friendly and a bit bratty
Deer were all over the island and were very friendly and (some) a bit bratty
This bratty deer took a train schedule pamphlet out of Tim's back pocket
This bratty deer took a train schedule pamphlet out of Tim’s back pocket
O-torii Gate at high tide
O-torii Gate at high tide
When it's high tide, the gate looks like it's floating. At low tide people can walk up to the gate.
When it’s high tide, the gate looks like it’s floating. At low tide people can walk up to the gate.
Cherry blossoms around the gate
Cherry blossoms around the gate
Senjokaku Temple
Senjokaku Temple
Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine area
There was a wedding going on at the temple
There was a wedding going on at the temple
View of the town from the temple. There were a lot of locals picnicking around the temple grounds
View of the town from the temple. There were a lot of locals picnicking around the temple grounds
Beautiful Japanese garden
Beautiful Japanese garden with huge koi. Probably my Dad’s dream pond. (Tim: looks like a summer project)

After we finished walking through the shrine and temple area. We walked around the streets of vendors, which mostly sold a Miyajima specialty called, “Momiji Manju”, which are pancake like cakes shaped in a maple leaf. Another popular local dish are oysters prepared all ways: fried, grilled, or raw.

Momiji Manju: Cakes shaped in maple leaves and filled with red bean paste (traditionally). We got a green tea and custard. 90 JPY = $1.08 CAD
Momiji Manju: Cakes shaped in maple leaves and filled with red bean paste (traditionally). We got a green tea and custard. 90 JPY = $1.08 CAD
Inside my green tea manju
Inside my green tea manju. They were still warm when we bought them.
They had a Sanrio Store! Hello Kitty in Miyajima
They had a Sanrio Store! Hello Kitty in Miyajima

We had to keep a close eye on the time since we had to return to Hiroshima, grab our bags from the hotel, and be back at the train station by 4:17pm to head to Osaka. Surprisingly, we didn’t feel as rushed as I thought we would, we were ahead of schedule by about an hour so I felt a lot more relaxed than I did yesterday thinking about today (Tim: just thinking about the possibility of not being on time can stress Kait out).

We made our way back to Hiroshima Station to have lunch. Since we failed at eating tsukemen last night, Tim found that there was a Bakudanya at the train station! Considering we were only in Hiroshima for 24 hours, we were able to eat two dishes that they’re “most known for”: okonomiyaki and tsukemen.

Bakudanya Hiroshima
Bakudanya Hiroshima
Chicken karaage 4 pieces for 411 JPY = $4.95 CAD
Chicken karaage 4 pieces for 411 JPY = $4.95 CAD
My hot tsukemen 823 JPY = $9.90 CAD
My hot tsukemen 823 JPY = $9.90 CAD
Tim's cold tsukemen, he added an egg so it was 890 JPY = $10.50 CAD
Tim’s cold tsukemen, he added an egg so it was 874 JPY = $10.50 CAD

The final consensus was that Tim’s cold tsukemen was better. I can imagine eating it on a hot summer’s day, it would be really refreshing. I like how they give you paper bibs since there is a lot of splashing when you dip your noodles into the soup. (Tim: You can also choose the level of spiciness, with the (sane) range going from 1-20. I chose 3 and felt like it was a reasonable level of spice. You can go extreme and get levels up to the 100s though… I shudder to think.)

I thought this map of Hiroshima on the wall was cool. We went to all the sites except for Mazda Stadium (where the Hiroshima Carps play)
I thought this map of Hiroshima on the wall was cool. We went to all the pictures on this wall except for Mazda Stadium (where the Hiroshima Carps play)

After lunch, we walked back to the hotel. We were really full from lunch so it was good to walk it off. The sun started coming out so it was actually really warm walking back. We had to switch to the shadier side of the street. We got back to the hotel and picked up our bags and caught the street car back to Hiroshima Station. I was happy that we were able to walk to and from the station and only took the street car back when we had our heavy backpacks (saved ourselves 640 JPY = $7.70 CAD) (Tim: and more importantly, got to take in the sights and sounds of the streets as a pedestrian).

Waiting for the street car to Hiroshima Station
Waiting for the street car to Hiroshima Station
This was random. There was a Hawaiian fair thing going on at the station. They had lots of Japanese hula dancers and they were selling Hawaiian apparel.
This was random. There was a Hawaiian fair thing going on in an underground mall. They had lots of Japanese hula dancers and they were selling Hawaiian apparel.
Japanese people love Hawaii and so do I. Ko Olina is one of my favourite places in Hawaii.
Japanese people love Hawaii and so do I. Ko Olina is one of my favourite places in Hawaii.

We got back to Hiroshima with a half hour to spare before boarding our train to Osaka. It was important we didn’t miss this train because we were meeting Tim’s Great-Aunt (7th Aunt on my Dad’s Mom’s side) on the platform at the station. She knew our train number and which car we were in and said she would be waiting on the platform for us (she also does not have a cell phone). Once we arrived at Shin-Osaka station (after a 1.5hr ride from Hiroshima on the high-speed rail), she was there waiting for us!

Tim and his 7-Yi Ma (Great Aunt) at Shin-Osaka Station walking towards the subway
Tim and his 7-Yi Ma (Great Aunt) at Shin-Osaka Station walking towards the subway

Tim’s Great-Aunt has been living in Osaka since she was 26 after finishing her medical degree there. She came to our wedding (we just realized it’s our 6 month anniversary already), so it was nice to be able to see her again this year. Tim doesn’t know her exact age, but she’s still working 4 days at week at the hospital (very impressive).

We took the subway to the hotel she booked for us for a week to drop off our bags before dinner. Osaka definitely feels like a huge city compared to Hiroshima and Fukuoka. I could only imagine what it would be like when we get to Tokyo. Tim says it’s good I eased my way into Japan, so I wouldn’t be so shocked going to Tokyo.

Tim’s Great-Aunt is very kind and hospitable and booked us at the Sheraton Miyako Osaka for a week when she found out we were coming to Osaka. This hotel is the nicest hotel we have/will stay at on our trip (Tim’s scared I’m going to get spoiled now). When we walked into the lobby with our huge backpacks and our hoodies, it felt like we didn’t really belong. Our room is on a the 18th floor so it has great views of the city. It is a normal North American sized room, which feels huge compared to the Japanese sized rooms we’ve been staying at the last few days. We’re both really happy to be able to just settled down here for a week.

Roomies!
Roomies!
Large bathroom by Japanese standards
Large bathroom by Japanese standards

Once we dropped our bags off, Tim’s 7-Yi Ma (Great-Aunt) took us for dinner at a restaurant in the mall that’s connected to the hotel. The restaurant was on the top floor of the mall and specialized in unagi. Tim mentioned that last time he was here with Jessica, his Great Aunt always took them out for unagi so he predicted we would have that for dinner as well, and he was right. She ordered dinner sets for us as well as an appetizer of tamago (egg) with unagi inside and a skewer of unagi innards.

Tamago with unagi inside
Tamago with unagi inside
Skewer of unagi innards. It was coated in unagi sauce so it wasn't bad. I just kept thinking they were clams (since it was chewy) and not unagi innards.
Skewer of unagi innards. It was coated in unagi sauce so it wasn’t bad. I just kept thinking they were clams (since it was chewy) and not unagi innards.
Dinner set: tempura, steamed egg, sashimi, unagi, rice and soup
Dinner set: tempura, steamed egg, sashimi, unagi, rice and soup
Us with 7-Yi Ma (Great Aunt) outside the restaurant in Osaka
Us with 7-Yi Ma (Great Aunt) outside the restaurant in Osaka

After a delicious meal, 7-Yi Ma brought us downstairs to the grocery store and bought us fruit. I was joking to Tim that she probably looked at us and thought we needed to eat more fresh fruit. She bought us strawberries and oranges. Japanese fruits are all so perfect looking. We just finished eating the strawberries, they were all very sweet.

Perfect Japanese strawberries
Perfect Japanese strawberries

We decided to just relax in the hotel and catch up on the blog and roughly plan out our week. Looking forward to spending time in one place (with a couple of day trips close by). I think if we had to move out of a hotel room each night, I would burn out very quickly.

As always it’s so nice to have family around, and 7-Yi Ma has been so sweet to us. I know we are extremely lucky to be surrounded by such loving families.

Our total steps today: 22,000